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From The Classic Course: The Basics of Lash Fill Appointments and Removals

Quick question for you, aspiring lash stylist: What should you do when a client returns and asks you to fix their old lash extensions? Would you replace one section with new ones or remove the entire lash set? 

Here’s a sneak peek into Beauty Boss Academy's The Classic Course to help us answer the question.

The correct answer depends on your assessment. Lash extensions last a few weeks; they need continuous upkeep to remain in good condition. This is why lash fill appointments and removals are important. It allows you to fix your client's eyelash extensions to a pretty and healthy state and your client to switch to a new style if they want to.  

How would you do all this? In this article, let’s find out how to enhance a client's lash look during a fill appointment and removal.

A Guide to Fill Appointments and Removals from BBA’s Eyelash Tech Course

Taking the time to examine the current state of your client’s lashes and ask for their suggestions shows that you care about their health and satisfaction. From there, you can assess the situation better and enhance their lash look accordingly.

Classic Lash Extensions - a pair of lash extensions 

Checking and Troubleshooting Lash Issues

A client's lash extensions will change after some time. Others may experience early fallouts for various reasons. A trained lash artist can recognize the signs and provide a solution. 

Let's discuss the most common lash issues addressed in a fill appointment.

Lash Stress

Lashes get stressed, too. When this occurs, the natural lashes can become damaged before you know it. Then, they can no longer support the weight of the extensions. 

Spot these three signs of stressed lashes:

  • Big gaps in the fill appointment - You see bigger gaps instead of the usual natural shedding gaps. (On the other hand, this may just be a case of stickies.)
  • Lots of twisted extensions - Half of the lash extensions are twisting.
  • Lots of baby lashes and bald spots - These are clear signs of baby lash stress and may hamper the hair follicle's growth.
Pro tip #1: Pay attention to baby lashes and ensure you don't apply extensions that are too heavy for them. When covering the gaps, apply the shortest and thinnest lash extension you have. If the gap is still big, add two or three lash extensions on stronger lashes beside the baby lash to cover it.

Pro tip #2: You may advise your client to take a break from lash extensions for about 12 weeks to make way for a new lash growth cycle. Suggest that they use a lash growth serum and take supplements to nurture their natural lashes. Always consider the best interest of your client's eye and lash health.


Stickies force the lashes stuck together to pull on each other as they grow out. They usually occur when the natural lashes aren't properly isolated, causing the natural lashes to stick to each other. This can cause discomfort, style, pain, and follicle damage. 

Pro tip: Do a final check before finishing the set and ensure there are no stickies.

A Grown-Out Lash

You might also notice some grown-out lashes during a fill appointment. Some baby and teenage lashes grow fast, causing the lashes to flip or the lash set to lose shape. 

Pro tip: Always remind your client to book fill-ins every two weeks for prevention.

The 40% Rule

Many salons have a prerequisite for booking a lash fill appointment—the client must have 40% of lash extensions remaining on their eyes for the appointment to be considered a fill. This is called the 40% rule. 

What remains may be actually less than 40% since you're going to remove grown-out lashes at the beginning of the appointment. If the lashes remaining are less than 40%, it is considered a full set.

Performing a Fill Appointment

Here's the step-by-step process of a lash refill from our eyelash extensions course online.

#1: Remove their eye makeup

Remind your client to remove their eye makeup before arriving at their appointment—this is a crucial step. They need to remove the waxy, oily residue on the lash line because it hampers the effectiveness of the lash adhesive. This also gives you more time to apply lashes as necessary. 

Remind your clients with classic lash sets to come back for a refill every 2–3 weeks.

#2: Removing the previous lash extensions

Next is removing the old, grown-out, twisted lashes and loosened adhesive bonds from your client's previous lash set. You can do this in two ways: individual classic eyelash extension removal or full set removal. 

For individual lash extension removals, you may choose between the banana peel method and debonder.

  • The banana peel method involves squeezing the lashes with an isolation tweezer. Only use this method on strong natural lashes because it requires you to squeeze harder and peel off a layer of it.
  • Debonder is a liquid to remove lash extensions. You must be careful when using this method because the liquid can cause an intense burning sensation in your client's eyes. 

For full set removals, use a downward or upward application. Get eye patches, removal cream, cotton swabs, lash bath products, water-based makeup remover, paper tape, and other necessary tools to accomplish this task.

#3: Always consult your client

Always perform a client consultation before proceeding with the lash fill session. They may want a different lash curl, length, or style this time. If so, modify your lash set's style to best suit your client’s preferences. This way, all your time and effort won't be wasted, and your client will be happy with the results!

Changing the Lash Length and Style

If your client wants some changes in their lash length or style, here’s how you do it step-by-step:

1. Even out the lash line

Once you remove unruly eyelash extensions, you'll find that the gaps on both lash lines aren't equal. One will be sparser than the other, which isn’t ideal for a starting base. So to bring the balance back, add some extensions in those gaps to even out the lash lines.

2. Increase the length

This step is very simple; you can do it in one lash fill appointment. Simply add 1- to 2-mm-longer lashes on the client's stronger natural lashes. 

3. Decrease the length

If the requested style or curl requires a shorter length, this is what you should do. First, add 1- to 2-mm-shorter lash extensions to each section, and then wait for the rest to shed out before decreasing them. Since this is a gradual process, you will have to do this in more than one fill appointment.

Pro tip: Never rush the process by cutting or trimming the extensions before they start shedding. This will eliminate the taper and give the extensions an odd appearance.
eyelash extensions course online - animated checklist

The Best Lash Fill Appointments Start With Proper Assessment and Consultation

As an aspiring lash technician, you must understand the importance of consultation before proceeding with any lash treatment, especially refills and removals. Always ask your clients first; maybe there's something they don't like about their previous set and want to explore more options for new lash styles, curls, or lengths. Ignoring their preferences will waste your client's time and investment.

That said, the client’s preference may not be the best choice for them. Sometimes, you need to suggest an alternative, especially if it poses certain health risks. 

Was this post helpful to you? If you want to take your lash passion to the professional level, enroll in The Classic Course now! We offer courses for newbies and experienced lash artists and teach you everything from the basics of classic lash extensions to advanced techniques like volume lashes. 

Here’s a preview of our courses:

  1. The Classic Course - for aspiring lash stylists who want to learn about classic eyelash extensions and the basics
  2. The Refresher Course - for experienced lash technicians who want to freshen up their techniques
  3. The Volume Course - an advanced course for creating volume lash fans and dramatic looks. Licensed technicians who want to expand their services can benefit from this advanced course!

We'll be waiting for you, future lash boss!

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