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Customize Your Client's Lash Style Using the Different Types of Lash Extensions

Nowadays, lash extensions are a popular alternative to wearing mascara. They give you that full, wide-eyed look without frequently reapplying them. You can apply them individually or in multiples onto the lashes with an adhesive.

If you want to become a successful lash extension technician, it's critical to determine which type of lash extension best suits your client. No two sets of eyes are alike, so each needs a customized lash makeover.

This process involves understanding the different types of lash extensions, which we will discuss in the article. 

types of eyelash extensions – eyelash extension guide about the different types of false eyelashes

Classifying the Different Types of Eyelash Extensions

Before applying lash extensions, you should know all your options to choose which ones fit your client's preferences perfectly. To do this, you must categorize them according to material, curl, thickness or diameter, and length.

Lash Material

Lash extensions can either be synthetic or made of animal hair

Animal hair lashes are made from natural materials. Some common examples are horse hair and mink. They look great but are less popular for the following reasons:

  • They're expensive.
  • They can't hold curls very well.
  • They easily trigger allergic reactions.
  • Consumers have become progressively less supportive of the use of animal products in the beauty industry.

Synthetic lash extensions are more common because they're affordable, soft, and hold their shape well. They also have various shines and finishes to choose from. Some examples are cashmere, silk, and mink lashes, but note that these names refer to their finish and not to their material content.

Synthetic lashes have two varieties: polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) and polyethylene terephthalate (PET).

  • PBT is a semi-crystalline polyester. It's highly resistant to chlorine and protein-based debris. PBT is soft and holds its shape very well.
  • PET is a clear, lightweight, and recyclable plastic. It's widely used in food packaging but can also be used to make lash extensions.

Whatever lash material you choose, always examine its quality. If the lashes are hard, look cheap, or have a plasticky texture, these are low-quality lashes.

Lash Curl

Understanding the various lash extension curls allows you to customize your client's lash look and live up to (or exceed) their expectations. It's important because an individual's natural lash growth has unique curls and layers. Check out the different types of lash curls below.

Flat Lashes

As its name suggests, this type of curl is completely flat. It is lightweight but creates a thicker lash effect. Your client will surely be pleased with it since they can achieve a thick look without having to deal with the weight of the lashes.

I Curl

The I curl is a good choice if your client is male or prefers subtle lash curls. It's the flattest curl next to flat lashes and is commonly used in the Asian market. If your client's natural lashes are too curly, applying a short I curl or flat curl on the bottom area is ideal.

J Curl

Use the J curl if your client wants a flat curl but not as straight as flat or I curls. It's often applied on the lower lashes or used in mixed curls. Like other straight curls, the J curl is good for curly natural lashes. 

C Curl

C curl is the most popular type of curl. It's universal, so most eye shapes look good with it. This is also a good choice if the client's natural lashes are neither too curly nor too straight. Avoid using the C curl on downturned eye shapes or if the client's natural lashes are too straight.

B Curl

B curl is another common type of curl. It's less curly than a C curl and used as a base curl if your client has curly natural lashes or upturned eyes. You can also mix it with other curls to complete a custom lash set for your client. 

Don't use B curls for very straight lashes on the bottom layer. Use them only when the natural lashes aren't too straight or curly.

CC Curl

Use the CC curl if your client wants a slightly curlier type than the C curl. It's also very popular. Wispy, one of the most advanced types of volume lash extension styles, requires CC curls along with C curls to create wide fans. It gives off Kim Kardashian-inspired lashes! You can also use it on clients with deep-set and hooded eye shapes.

D Curl

The D curl is perfect for clients with very straight natural lashes and downturned eyes. But when applying it, don't use it throughout the entire eye because the curl may appear unnatural or intense. You should also avoid using D curl if the natural lashes on the top layer are curly.

L Curl

The L curl is for clients with monolid eyes or who prefer a defined lash look. This curl has a straight base and is great for straight natural lashes growing on the bottom layer. 

There's an advanced style called the M or L curl eyeliner lash style in volume lashes. It gives off a long, sharp, and upturned effect. This curl is not as popular as the previous types, though.

M Curl

The M curl is the most uncommon type but is growing in popularity. It has a straight base but a less sharp and smoother transition than the L curl. It's also perfect for a lash lift on very straight natural lashes and droopy eye shapes. Use this with C, CC, and D curls to achieve Ariana Grande's signature cat-eye look!

It's okay not to master everything right away. When starting in the lash industry, familiarize yourself with popular curls first. You can then expand your knowledge by learning about the less common types and building your lash collection as you go.

types of lash extensions classic - closeup of dental mirror on a woman’s left eyelashes


Many people confuse lash diameter with length. In lash extensions, diameter indicates the thickness of the extensions. There are several diameters on the market, but let's discuss the most famous ones.

0.03 mm  

The thinnest diameter on this list is used only for mega volume lash sets. It can handle many lash extensions and doesn't require spacing. Use this for your volume lash clients who want a super dramatic look, something that makes their eyes the center of attention in photographs. 

0.05 mm  

This diameter is recommended for 6–7D volume sets. That's a lot of extensions, and it may not require spacing. Not familiar with terms like "6D" and "7D?" These indicate the number of lash extensions on a volume fan. The higher the number of extensions on a fan, the stronger the natural lashes must be to support the weight.

0.07 mm  

Use 0.07 mm for 3–5D volume sets. In volume lashing, 3D and 4D fans are used on weaker or baby natural lashes to avoid lash stress and sparse lashes. 5D fans are designed for stronger lashes and to achieve a fuller look.

0.10 and 0.12 mm

These two diameters are suitable for hybrid or classic lashes. However, it depends on how thick the natural lashes are. For example, natural lashes are thinner and shorter in the inner and outer corners of the eye. So you have to use a thin eyelash extension on those areas to avoid stressing them. Clients will also feel more comfortable.


A diameter this thick should be for classic lash extensions only. Remember not to use it on baby lashes because it's too thick and heavy for them. 

When in doubt, follow this rule: use the same thickness of lash extensions as the natural lashes (or 1 mm thicker) to avoid lash stress. It will also extend the lifespan of the lash look.


Next, determine a suitable lash extension length to complete your client's desired look. As mentioned, natural lashes are shorter in the inner and outer corners. This is why the shortest lengths are used in these areas.

  • 6–7 mm for inner corners
  • 8 mm for inner or outer corners 

Use longer extensions in areas where you can find longer and stronger natural lashes. They're usually at the centre, but it depends on an individual's natural eyelash growth.

  • The most popular lengths are around 9–13 mm.
  • Lengths 14–15 mm are less popular because not many people have such long natural lashes.
  • The maximum length you can use on a client is 16 mm.

Never use lash extensions more than 2 mm longer than the length of the natural lash. If a client’s longest natural lashes are 11 mm, use 13 mm as the maximum length for their strongest lashes. This will help you avoid lash overstress and expand the set's lifespan. 

Final Thoughts

Eyelash extensions are all the rage nowadays. Many people gain confidence with this small but significant change in their eyes. It's what makes being a lash tech a rewarding job—because you make it happen!

But when a client asks for a lash makeover, it's not as easy as ABC. Several factors help you accomplish the desired results. To begin with, you must classify lash extensions according to the material, curl, diameter, and length. They all affect the choice, process, and outcome of the lash application. 

Learn more about the fastest-growing beauty industry through Beauty Boss Academy’s classic lash technician course. Who knows? You might find your passion while doing so!

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