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Changing Lash Length and Styles in Fill Appointments: The Classic Course Overview

Let's start this article with a quick question for you, aspiring lash tech! What should you do when a client comes in for a lash extension refill? Would you fix their lashes immediately with the same style or ask if they want to change anything?

The correct answer is the latter! A fill appointment doesn't only mean fixing your client's eyelash extensions to their pretty and healthy state. Rather, you're giving them a chance to switch to a new look if they want to. 

And if they requested a new style, how would you execute it? This article will give you all the answers! Have a sneak peek of Beauty Boss Academy's The Classic Course and find out how to change a client's lash look during a fill appointment.

An Eyelash Tech Course Guide to Changing the Eyelash Extension Length and Style in Fill Appointments

The first thing to do in a lash fill appointment is to ask your client if there is anything they want to change in their previous lash style. For example, they may want a different lash style, colour, length, or curl. Taking the time to ask for suggestions shows that you care greatly about client satisfaction. 

Read our step-by-step guide on how to change a client's lash look during a fill appointment!

Classic Lash Extensions - a pair of lash extensions 

Prepping Your Lash Display: Different Lash Styles, Lengths, and Curls

First things first, do you have your lash display ready? We recommend making one that features all the various lash extension styles, curls, and lengths you offer. This will help educate your clients with more lash knowledge and choose something that best fits their style.

If you have no idea what to put in your lash display, here's a quick list to get you started. We suggest adding a quick and easily understandable description of each variation and some high-quality photos.

4 Basic Lash Styles

  • Natural or Open Eye - a lash style that follows the natural eye shape
  • Dolly Eye - a mix of mid-sized lashes; the longest lash is in the center while shorter lashes are in the inner and outer corners
  • Butterfly - a popular lash style softly extending the eye shape; long lash extensions are at the eyebrow's arch point, while short ones are at the outer corner
  • Cat Eye - a lash style for natural eyelashes with great strength and thickness; long extensions at the outer corner create a long eyeliner look, pulling the eyes upward

Different Lash Curls

  • I Curl - a flat curl style favoured by male and Asian clients
  • J Curl - a fairly flat lash curl used as a mixed curl for lower lashes
  • B Curl - a common base curl for clients with curly lashes
  • C Curl - the most popular curl style; it's used in most eye shapes except super straight natural lash or outer corners of downward eyes
  • CC Curl - a curlier variation of the C curl
  • D Curl - a lash curl for clients with very straight lashes; it's not applied throughout the entire eye
  • L Curl - a straight-base curl that gives off a sharp look
  • M Curl - another curl with a straight base but less sharp and smoother in transition
  • Flat Lashes - a flat lash curl that creates a thick appearance without being heavy on the lashes

Different Lash Lengths

  • 6mm (for inner corners)
  • 7mm (for inner corners)
  • 8mm (for inner and outer corners)
  • 9mm (popular length)
  • 10mm (popular length)
  • 11mm (popular length)
  • 12mm (popular length)
  • 13mm (longer popular length)
  • 14mm (longer and less popular length)
  • 15mm (longer and less popular)
  • 16mm (maximum length, rarely used)

Changing the Individual Lash Length, Style, or Curl: A 3-Step Guide

Once the client decides and you don't have any concerns about their choice, proceed with the fill-in treatment. Here's a quick step-by-step guide for you.

1. Even Out the Lash Line

Once you remove unruly eyelash extensions, you'll find that the gaps on both lash lines aren't equal. One will have more sparse lashes than the other, and that's not ideal for a base to start with. So to bring the balance back, add some extensions in those gaps to even out the lash lines.

2. Increase the Length

This step is very simple; you can do it in one lash fill appointment. Simply add about 1-2 mm longer lash extensions on the client's stronger natural lashes. 

3. Decrease the Length

If the requested style or curl requires a shorter length, this is what you should do. First, add 1-2 mm of shorter lash extensions to each section, then wait for the rest to shed out before decreasing them. Since this is a gradual process, you will have to do this for more than one fill appointment.

Pro Tip: Never rush the process by cutting or trimming the extensions before they start shedding. This will eliminate the taper and give the extensions an odd appearance.

eyelash extensions course online - animated checklist

3 Other Things to Consider During Fill Appointments

Changing a client's lash look during a fill appointment might seem easy. Perhaps, it does get better with experience. That said, there are still many things to consider. 

In fact, you have to analyze three more factors before even getting to this part of the treatment. But what exactly are these factors? Here's another sneak peek from our eyelash extensions course online.

Refill vs. Full Classic Lash Set

During the consultation, you must check whether your client needs a lash refill or a full set removal. Certain signs and conditions can help you determine which of the two best suits your client's needs.

For example, if the client's lashes show signs of overstress and stickies, a refill would fix the problem quickly. On the other hand, if you find less than 40% of eyelash extensions on their eyes, it's time to consider a full set removal. 

Banana Peel Method vs. Debonder

There are two methods of lash extension removal: the Banana Peel and the Debonder. The Banana Peel method requires an isolation tweezer for squeezing and peeling a single natural lash. Typically, you should only use this method for stronger lashes as it requires force.  

Meanwhile, a Debonder is the liquid alternative of the Banana Peel method. It involves dipping an application tweezer into little amounts of the solution and holding onto the lash extension until it falls off. You don't need to squeeze or peel the natural lashes here. However, you must protect your client's eyes from the liquid because it can cause an intense burning sensation.

Foreign Fills

Some clients would come over and ask for a lash refill, but the problem is you're not the lash artist who applied the previous set. This can be tricky to work on because each lash technician has a different skill level, and you don't want to risk the results. In cases like this, we suggest you start over and remove the entire lash set instead of a fill-in.

The Best Lash Fill-ins Start With a Consultation

As an aspiring lash technician, you must understand the importance of consultation before proceeding with any lash treatment, especially fill-ins. Always ask your clients first; maybe there's something they don't like about their previous set and want to explore more options for new lash styles, curls, or lengths.

Otherwise, ignoring their preferences will waste your client's lash investment instead of extending them. That said, you don't have to follow their requests all the time. Sometimes, you need to educate them or suggest an alternative if it won't do them any good and more so if it poses some health risks. 

Was this post helpful to you? If you want to take your lash passion to the professional level, enroll in The Classic Course now! We offer courses for beginners and experienced lash artists and teach you everything from the basics of classic lash extensions to advanced techniques like volume lashes. 

Here’s a preview of our courses.

  1. The Classic Course - for aspiring lash stylists who want to learn about classic eyelash extensions and the basics
  2. The Refresher Course - for experienced lash technicians who want to upskill their lash expertise
  3. The Volume Course - for those interested in volume lash extensions and the dramatic look they give; licensed techs who want to expand their services aside from lash lift, lash tint, brow lamination, and eye makeup can benefit from this advanced course, too!

We'll be waiting for you, lash boss!

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